Battery charging system, 8 Sunforce 15W amorphous panels, 3 Harbor Freight 15W amphorus, 2 55W Siemens. Xantrek Trace C40 Charge controller, Power Bright 1500W pure sine. 11 12V 35Amp Hr. Sealed AGM batteries. Why the copper bar???????? www.youtube.com www.powerstream.com

You are fan of nikola Tesla
Question: So you can have separate charge controller on a multiple solar panel?
The 4 Siemens 55w use the Trace C40.
3 Harbor freight+ 4 15w Sunforce on the Sunforce 7 amp.
The other set of 4 Sunforce panels are using the 7 amp charge controller.
The C40 wires into the center of the battery bank.
The two 7 amp charge controllers are at the corners of the battery bank.
im new to this and from the UK can you help
i have wired 10 panels together in parallel they are 3.2 Watts 18.8Volts and 170ma per panel
not sure what this means in amps
i have 2 X 110amp batteries and a 1500 watt inverter
do i need diodes and fuses or will a carger controler do the job to stop back surge
Any advice will be great
im trying to run the lighting on an extrension first
i have 5 X 5 watt bulbs and 3 X 12 watt bulbs in there
Most charge controllers have a blocking diode. Check specs on the charge controller.
Make sure your system is grounded. Ground – bat side. ground – side on panels.
thank you so much
Take that charge contoller out of the bag. It apears to be a xantrex lighting controler. get some 12V led lights off Ebay and hook them up to your charge controller. Great video. CHEERS WINDY NC
your saw that is 14 amps is using 1540 watts becuse you multiply volts x amps to get watts so 14amps x 110 volts is 1540 watts. I think thats more than your pure sine inverter. I like to get a 5000 watt inverter to run a fridge. I like all those batterys you have, and your pure sine inverter would be great for a big screen tv. I am still in the infant stages of building my solar panels. I would love to get a marathon M1290FT battery they are the best but they cost $490.
I should connect these up to the dump load terminals?
Yes get the charge controller out of the bag!
It needs air for cooling!
Increased wire length the controller
is out of the rain now. This was an earlier video made before the system was finished setting up. My problem is organizing the wires, build a combiner box, way too many wires from the 15w panels.
you should take that bag off the charge controller if you havent allready. Also you should remove that copper rod and only use stranded copper wire for all your DC stuff. DC has a hard time going through solid copper. Nice little set up though
The copper bar is a buss bar.
Sees ohms resistance values for AWG sizes.
I have a question, does any one not use
charge controller? Have only blocking diodes from the panels?
The CR40 can also be used as a dump load.
Could I just put fuses & blocking diodes, switch the C40 into a load dump off the batteries @13.5V?
@pgm98387 Ok. Also if you ever have a problem with a center battery and had to remove it quickly that bar could get in the way.
@pgm98387 I use mine as charge control. My dad uses his as a dump load. He hooked everything up to the batteries and the dump load to the controller. he seams to loke it a lot
copper rod ? I sure you would be better off with a stranded wire like the ones you bought from Walmart. Most people think electricity flows through the wire but actually it flows along the out side of the wire thats why they use many stranded wires so your better off using the largest diameter finely stranded wire you can afford this carries more current.
Why does an electrical charge permeate thru bundled stranded wire better than a solid copper bar? See the chart on resistance in the link.
Its my understanding that the electrons bump from one atom to the next thru the material. Why would increased surface area on many strands make a charge flow more effectively? I understand that stranded copper shielded is better for positioning, durability and safety to interconnect 2 devices.
The copper bar was also less expensive than buying the cables.
Yes electron bump with increase resistance, so you’d be better to use a copper tube not solid.. Due to the way electrons flow, a tube will hold more current with less resistance.
@Karlillingworth
So the electron flows around the copper sruface thru the air?
Thanks for documenting and sharing your setup!
i have a question about wires all batteries together with cause a spark or blow it up???
Nice video, question about batteries do they all need to be the same size for a battery bank? I have 4 lawnmower batterys and 2 car batterys that still work, can they be wired together? Also if anyone knows about 12v Trickle chargers, can multiple one be clamped to the same battery or do they have to be put on seperate batteries?
@aihumlay
It has been clear and sunny all day, after Iread your post i ran my 500w leaf blower on the powerbright. The cable to the positive side on the terminal was getting really hot to the touch. So…..mabe if too much current was flowing it could melt the casing…? The batteries are sealed Absorbed glass mat (AGM) They are notsupposed to vent hydrogen gas with normal use.
@SwindleFlu
Sure, if you watch that episode of the Discovery channel show “The Colony”
they scavenged 20-30 car batteries and hooked them together. The weaker ofthe batteries will bring down the others. Just don’t drain the batteries too much under 12V. Batteries I’ve learned like to be kept healthy if always charge. Run everything you can when the sun is shining. Use those batteries as a buffer. Always keep a volt meter on them.